A reporter shares her three-day fall escape to Ucluelet

Daily Hive Vancouver reporter Katy Brennan spent three days in Ucluelet, a small coastal town near Tofino and Port Alberni known for rugged beaches, marine wildlife and storm watching. Her fall weekend included rainforest trails, coastline visits, watching surfers and trying local cafés and restaurants.

On Friday morning, Brennan took a BC Ferries sailing from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo’s Duke Point terminal. She notes that travellers can also fly from Vancouver to Ucluelet with Harbour Air from spring to early fall; fly from Calgary or Edmonton to Nanaimo and rent a car; or fly to Comox, about a three-hour drive away. After coffee and a Nanaimo bar, her group drove west for about two and a half hours. They stopped to see the goats on the roof at Coombs Market and walked through Cathedral Grove to see its ancient trees. Brennan says fall and winter visits can be quieter and less crowded. They reached Ucluelet in the late afternoon amid misty weather.

They checked into the family-run Bayshore Waterfront Inn beside the scenic Inner Harbour. The hotel is a short walk from Ucluelet’s main restaurants and shops, and less than a 15-minute walk from Big Beach. As they explored town, Brennan noticed locals greeting passersby and a small group of deer foraging in a grassy area. At Big Beach, she saw dramatic rock formations, waves breaking against the shore and the remains of a shipwreck. The early fall weather was mild, and she wondered what the area would be like later in storm-watching season. The group then visited Ucluelet Brewing Company, housed in an old church. Brennan chose a blood orange and rosemary cider from the rotating taps and ordered a second with a bite to eat.

On their second day, they started with oat lattes and pastries at The Break Cafe, then drove about 20 minutes to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Brennan walked Rainforest Trail A and B, winding boardwalk loops through towering cedar trees. She found the trails beautiful and quiet, and recommended them for people of all fitness levels. Her group initially went the wrong way and had to shuffle awkwardly past other hikers. They then watched surfers at Cox Bay Beach before walking along Wickaninnish Beach, where they saw several kinds of jellyfish and tiny hermit crabs washed ashore.

In the afternoon, they returned to Ucluelet for the Lighthouse Loop, part of the Wild Pacific Trail. The 2.6-kilometre route takes about 45 minutes and has little elevation gain, though Brennan recommends allowing more time for its many viewpoints. She called the sight of Amphitrite Lighthouse above the rolling waves magnificent. She also noted that the loop was named one of the best hiking trails in the U.S. and Canada. For dinner, the group went to Shipwreck Pizza and ordered the Loaded Cheese and Navaggio pizzas with craft beer and cider.

They ended the evening with another walk to Big Beach. Brennan sat on a log and watched what she called the most beautiful sunset she had ever seen. Others on the beach watched, too, some gathered around fires or having picnics and others taking photos. On the walk back to the hotel by the harbour, she saw a full moon casting light over the calm water.

Before heading back to Vancouver on Sunday, the group stopped for coffee at The Barkley Cafe and visited Reflecting Spirit Gallery, which showcases established and emerging B.C. artists. They saw sculptures and paintings by Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ – Ucluelet First Nations artists and bought stickers and postcards. A local told them the Ucluelet Sunday Market was taking place at Village Green, so they browsed the vendors and local art.

Their final stop was Ucluelet Aquarium. Brennan says she usually avoids aquariums and zoos for ethical reasons, but describes this aquarium as different because it follows a catch-and-release model. Its marine animals are collected locally, kept for a few months and then returned to their exact home habitats. They are displayed in open-top tanks, with water pumped directly from the adjacent harbour to mimic the surrounding ecosystem. Brennan says the knowledgeable, passionate staff make it a good learning experience, especially for families with children, and the displays change often.

Brennan says she plans to return. Next time, she would like to take a whale-watching trip with Jamie’s Whaling Station to see more marine life. On this trip, humpback whales surfaced alongside the ferry on the return to Vancouver. She would also like to stay at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort and visit Drift Spa; the resort’s bar offers a place to storm-watch in comfort. She suggests that people planning a fall or winter trip visit the Tourism Ucluelet website for ideas.